India has done phenomenal work in building the national highway infrastructure over the past decade. Travel times have been cut by at least 25% thanks to the development of 4- and 6-lane highways. The smooth surfaces, efficient toll plazas, and well-marked lanes make for a relatively stress-free driving experience. However, the real challenge begins when one ventures onto state roads and interior routes. As I had written in an essay a couple years ago: “This is quintessential India: existing simultaneously in multiple decades and perhaps even centuries.” Here are some reflections and observations from a recent journey on these roads.
Road Quality: One of the first things that strikes you is the quality of the roads. While there has been some improvement over the years, the smoothness and consistency seen on national highways are missing. Potholes, undulations, and uneven patches are common, especially in areas prone to heavy rainfall. The result? It is rarely possible to go beyond 60 kmph, and the average speed ends up being closer to 30-35 kmph. For those used to cruising on highways, this can be frustrating and time-consuming.
Two-Lane Roads and the Art of Navigation: The 2-lane roads without dividers present a unique set of challenges, particularly at night. These roads require heightened alertness and considerable driving skill. Every journey feels like an adventure, with a wide assortment of fellow road users to navigate around. Bicycles, bullock carts, motorbikes without taillights, slow-moving tractors, and stray cattle squatting in the middle of the road all contribute to the experience. It’s a shared space for everyone, and at times, even other drivers seem unsure of which direction they’re headed.
The Overtaking Dilemma: With traffic moving at different speeds, overtaking becomes a constant exercise. While overtaking on highways is fairly straightforward, on these 2-lane roads, it becomes an intricate dance. Drivers must wait for the perfect opportunity, peer ahead to check for oncoming traffic, and often rely on instinct to make their move. Impatience can be dangerous, and misjudgments can be fatal.
Headlights and Night Driving: Night driving on interior roads is an entirely different beast. The blinding glare of high-beam headlights from oncoming vehicles can be disorienting. Despite the availability of technology like auto-dimming headlights, many vehicles still use high beams indiscriminately. This forces drivers to squint, slow down, or even stop momentarily to regain their composure.
Speed Breakers: The Unmarked Menace: Speed breakers are an inescapable feature of India’s interior roads. They are found everywhere — near schools, on village approaches, and sometimes seemingly in the middle of nowhere. The problem is not their presence but the way they’re implemented. Many of these speed breakers are unmarked and unpainted, making them almost invisible at night. Instead of simply slowing down traffic, they bring vehicles to a complete halt as drivers navigate them with extreme caution. The unexpected jolt from hitting one at speed can be both physically and mechanically jarring.
The Pothole Paradox: After the monsoons, potholes become a permanent feature of interior roads. The rains wash away not just the surface but also the hopes of a smooth ride. Potholes of varying depths and sizes dot the roads, creating a bumpy and uncomfortable journey. As one government official candidly remarked, “The money is not made during the construction, but in the maintenance contracts!” This points to a systemic issue where the durability of roads is compromised, necessitating frequent repairs that are financially lucrative for contractors but frustrating for road users.
Urban Chaos and the Traffic Lights Puzzle: Many small towns and growing cities face a unique infrastructure challenge. As populations expand, the road network often struggles to keep up. Intersections without traffic lights become the norm, leading to 4-way scrambles. The result? Everyone tries to edge their way through the crossing simultaneously, creating confusion, chaos, and frequent gridlocks. While some drivers resort to honking incessantly, others rely on luck and aggression to make their way through.
Mixed Traffic and Unpredictability: Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of India’s interior roads is the sheer unpredictability. At any moment, a dog or goat might wander onto the road, a tractor might reverse into traffic, or a motorbike might appear from a hidden lane. This unpredictability keeps drivers on edge, forcing them to stay alert. It’s a constant reminder that driving in India is not just a skill — it’s an art.
The Broader Perspective: The chaos of India’s interior roads is a microcosm of the wonder that is India. It’s an unfiltered, unvarnished reflection of life in the country — bustling, unpredictable, and full of surprises. The same roads that challenge drivers also reveal the spirit of resilience, adaptability, and ingenuity that defines India. From roadside mechanics who can fix anything to truck drivers who navigate impossible routes, these roads tell a story of survival and grit.
While national highways have seen tremendous improvements, it is clear that attention now needs to be directed towards state roads, rural routes, and city infrastructure. Encouraging signs are emerging. More flyovers are being constructed, certain towns are getting their first proper traffic lights, and smart city initiatives are taking off in pockets. Over the next decade, with the right focus and investment, it is possible to imagine an India where even interior roads match the quality of national highways.
As drivers, we are also learning. On highways, there’s a growing awareness that slow-moving traffic should stay to the left, a practice that’s gradually becoming second nature. Perhaps similar behavioural changes will occur on interior roads too, as we move from chaos to order. Just as India is rising on the global stage, perhaps its roads — big and small — will also follow the same trajectory of progress and excellence.
